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Growing Gloxinia Successfully



Here are some tips for not only growing gloxinia but keeping them looking good and heavily blooming.

Before we start however, it is useful to make sure we’re talking about the same plant– Sinningia speciosa or Florists Gloxinia.

This relative to your grandmother’s African violets (unless you’re the grandmother that grows them) :-) is available in bloom from greenhouses almost year-round now. And with their massive, deep-throated flowers gloxinia put on quite a show.

I note that with a very little bit of care, you’ll be able to get this tuberous plant to reflower several times before it begins to get too small to set blooms. And if you are quite careful in your growing, you might even be able to keep it going longer than this.

A word of caution - gloxinia are quite specific about what they want in the way of growing conditions and will be quite quick to announce their displeasure should you not provide it. Here are the things you need to know.

Let’s start at the beginning

How to Plant the Tubers


The top of the tuber should be right at the surface of the soil and not buried (lightly covered is a good idea) deeply.

What’s the problem here? This silly plant’s tuber is often difficult to tell which end is up. The solution is a two-step process.

First. Look at the gloxinia tuber carefully. Look for a small group of tiny points (these are growing buds) – they can be on the top and they can sometimes even be on the side of the tuber next to some roots. Plant the tuber with these points as the “top”. If you can’t find the growing points, then see point number two.

Second: Sometimes, the only person who knows which end is up on this plant is Mother Nature. So let her sort it out. Plant the tubers on their edge in a vertical way – so that both sides are straight up and down. The growing points will emerge and head for the surface.

Light Levels


This is one of those delightful plants that wants as much sun as you can give it but nothing direct. Lots of light but nothing direct

You’ll be disappointed if you try growing it in dull areas (you may need grow lights if in a north facing apartment).

If the leaves start to stretch out, it isn’t getting enough light no matter where you have it.

Watering


Regular watering. Water thoroughly and allow the soil to slightly dry out (finger test dry) between waterings. Do not keep fully damp/swamp-like or you’ll lose it. Do not allow it to dry right out like a desert or it will be distinctly unhappy. Remember this is a relative of the African violet.

Experts tell us to avoid watering the crown of the plant as it will tend to rot. Many growers irrigate from the bottom (fill the saucer – let it soak up for an hour and then dump excess water out)

Use warm water!

What Temperature to Grow


When in bloom, gloxinia do best if kept in the mid 60’sF. Do not allow it to go cooler than 60F or the plant will suffer.

When actively growing – they love 70F.

When dormant after blooming, they happily live at 50F.

What about Humidity?


Many plants of this family like high humidities but if you spray them with water, you may find the blooms blotch and disfigure.

Providing humidity with a humidifier is the best solution.

Feeding



Use a general houseplant fertilizer on this plant – a balanced one where all the numbers are the same works well.

Feed regularly while the plant is growing strongly and blooming. But as soon as it stops putting out blooms, stop feeding so the tuber can grow dormant.

Soils


A good quality artificial soil works well; this is generally what commercial greenhouses use.

Some gardeners swear by African Violet potting soil (and this makes sense if the plant is a close relative of that violet).

Whichever soil you use, make sure it drains well

Repotting


It is best to repot the gloxinia every spring (or when it goes dormant) so the new growth will happen into a bigger pot with fresh soil.

Pruning


Remove the spent flowers by carefully cutting them off at the base of the stem. Watch the leaves though, they are quite brittle and won’t tolerate abuse without going brown and ugly.

Getting More Free Plants


Start them by leaf cuttings exactly as you would an African violet

Flowering


You should see 6-8 weeks of bloom each time it comes into bloom.

The buds are rotting off – what do I do? It is quite likely you’re overwatering or watering with cold water. Always use warm water and water only when the soil just goes dry to the touch.

Mine Just Stopped Blooming – Help!


So why did it stop? Too little light? Too cold? Too dry? Too wet? Correct these.

If none of these then maybe it was blooming for 6-8 weeks and it just ran out of flower energy.

If finished blooming because of natural length, then the trick now is to put it to sleep and dormancy. Start this process by watering a little less each week, The leaves will slowly go yellow and dry as the plant goes dormant.

Easy Way to Store the Tuber


Leave it in the pot and allow the soil to go quite dry. Keep the tuber at 40-50F until you see some new growth. When the new growth starts (usually several months) start watering, feeding and bring it right back to the heavily lit area where you’re going to grow it.

Distorted or Cracked Leaves


Cracked leaves are usually a case of mishandling. These leaves are very brittle and being a little too rough when moving them or handling them for any reason will often result in leaf breakage.

Distortions in the leaf are usually a sign of aphids. Get out the organic houseplant spray (check the label to ensure it is OK to use on this plant).

I also note that if you try to use some of the leaf shine products that these will create brown and ugly spots leaves.

Final Words


The gloxinia is a wonderful plant if happy and all things (temperature, light and watering) are fine. Go wrong on one of these conditions and flowers will drop off, buds will rot and the plant goes “south” in a big hurry.

This is why gloxinia often make great gifts for “other” gardeners. :-)





















Click here to ask about gloxinia.



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